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The largest of old Delhi's monuments is the Lal Quila, or the Red Fort, the
thick red sandstone walls of which, bulging with turrets and bastions,
have withstood the vagaries of time, and nature. The Lal Quila rises above
a wide dry moat, in the northeast corner of the original city of Shahjahanabad.
Its walls extend upto two kilometre, and vary in height from 18 metres
on the river side to 33 metres on the city side.
Mughal Emperor Shahjahan started the construction of the massive fort
in 1638, and work was completed in 1648. The fort sports all the obvious
trappings, befitting a vital centre of Mughal government: halls of public
and private audience, domed and arched marble palaces, plush private apartments,
a mosque, and elaborately designed gardens. Even today, the fort remains
an impressive testimony to Mughal grandeur, despite being attacked by the
Persian Emperor Nadir Shah in 1739, and by the British soldiers, during
the war of independence in 1857.
Entrance to the fort is through the imposing Lahore Gate, which as its
name suggests faces Lahore, now in Pakistan. This gate has a special significance
for India, since the first war of independence, and has been the venue
of many an important speech, delivered by freedom fighters and national
leaders of India.
The main entrance opens on to the Chatta Chowk, a covered street flanked
with arched cells, that used to house Delhi's most skilful jewellers, carpet
makers, weavers and goldsmiths. This arcade was also known as the Meena
Bazaar, the shopping centre for the ladies of the court. Just beyond the
Chhata Chowk, is the heart of the fort called Naubat Khana, or the Drum
House. Musicians used to play for the emperor from the Naubat Khana, and
the arrival of princes and royalty was heralded from here.
The Fort also houses the Diwan-i-Amor the Hall of Public Audiences,
where the Emperor would sit and hear complaints of the common folk. His
alcove in the wall was marble-panelled, and was set with precious stones,
many of which were looted, after the Mutiny of 1857. The Diwan-i-Khas is
the hall of private audiences, where the Emperor held private meetings.
This hall is made of marble, and its centre-piece used to be the Peacock
Throne, which was carried away to Iran by Nadir Shah in 1739. Today, the
Diwan-i-Khas is only a pale shadow of its original glory, yet the famous
Persian couplet inscribed on its wall reminds us of its former magnificence:
"If on earth be an eden on bliss, it is this, it is this, none but
this."
The other attractions enclosed within this monument are the hammams
or the Royal Baths, the Shahi Burj, which used to be Shahjahan's private
working area, and the Moti Masjid or the Pearl Mosque, built by Aurangzeb
for his personal use. The Rang Mahalor the 'Palace of Colors'
housed the Emperor's wives and mistresses. This palace was crowned with
gilded turrets, delicately painted and decorated with an intricate mosaics
of mirrors, and a ceiling overlaid with gold and silver, that was wonderfully
reflected in a central pool in the marble floor.
Even today, the Lal Quila is an eloquent reminder of the glory of the
Mughal era, and its magnificence simply leaves one awestruck. It is still
a calm haven of peace, which helps one to break away, from the frantic
pace of life outside the walls of the Fort, and transports the visitor
to another realm of existence.
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